《The Urbanites》——朱德華三十年人像攝影集

現年六十歲的攝影師朱德華 (Almond Chu),拍攝題材多元,人體、靜物、城市風景、社會議題均有所涉獵,他也十分擅長拍攝人像攝影。1980年代,當他在東京綜合寫真專門學校修讀攝影時,選擇以人像攝影作為課堂功課,這也為他日後的人像攝影師之路奠定基礎。

由1980年代至千禧年代,他喜歡以6×6的正方形畫面拍攝黑白人像,在簡單背景下,王家衛、許鞍華及李安等導演悉數出現在他鏡頭下,還有演員馮德倫、設計師陳幼堅、詩人也斯及北島、時裝設計師鄧達智、編舞家曹誠淵、作曲家譚盾及龔志成、指揮家葉詠詩、藝術家谷文達、歌手盧巧音、雕塑家唐景森及麥顯揚等多幅精采人像作品,三十年來以鏡頭見證當時各行各業的重要創意人物。

一幅引人入勝的肖像,往往只需簡單的背景,拍攝許鞍華及王家衛時,朱德華便是在工作室捕捉他們的表情。王家衛向來以黑超造型示人,煙不離手吞雲吐霧,非常有個性。拍攝時,他口叼香煙坐在鏡頭前,導演的威嚴形象頓時油然而生,為許鞍華拍攝的人像作品也有異曲同工之妙。

有時他也會借助道具凸顯拍攝者的性格,當中拍攝作曲家譚盾的過程令他分外難忘。譚盾原本忘記當然的拍攝任務,到他出現時距離彩排僅十分鐘,他起初不喜歡攝影師的構思,後來朱德華用寶麗來拍攝助手的照片給他過目,他才放下心中疑慮。這幅譚盾躺在鋼琴上的照片僅以數分鐘拍攝完成,卻成為朱德華最廣為人知的人像作品之一。

拍攝李安時,他正進行電影《飲食男女》的剪接工作,平易近人的他任由攝影師在剪片室拍攝,朱德華認為他當天身穿的衣服不太合襯,於是建議他除去外衣,呈現他毫無架子的一面。朱德華鏡頭下的人物大多沒有誇張表情,而是透過被攝者的肢體語言,呈現出他們的個性,這也成為他人像攝影的魅力與特色。

在2010年代中後期及2010年代拍攝的肖像中,他已不再侷限於正方形畫面或黑白人像,觀眾可見有歌手黃耀明、模特兒蔣怡、演員何超儀及劉曉慶、建築師嚴迅奇、藝術家張曉剛與岳敏君,還有杜琪峯、王小帥、王全安等導演。朱德華照片的用色更加豐富,但同樣呈現出他作為攝影師的細膩觀察力,捕捉拍攝者散發獨特氣質的瞬間。

《The Urbanites》收錄朱德華三十年間拍攝的八十多位香港文化藝術界的重要人物,他們活躍於電影、文學、表演、音樂及藝術等範疇,他們的創作成為香港文化的一部分,滋養許多年輕的觀眾與創作者。攝影集於「顯影·書櫃」有售。

《我城》—— 十三位攝影師的香港聯展

致力於推廣攝影藝術的Boogie Woogie Photography與香港攝影平台「顯影PhotogStory」在黃竹坑The Loft攜手呈獻攝影聯展《我城》(My Hong Kong),展期由2022年9月3日至10月15日。

同一座城市,在不同人眼中,可能有不同的魅力,作家西西在小說《我城》裏寫道:「我喜歡這城市的天空/我喜歡這城市的海/我喜歡這城市的路」。

展覽《我城》展出十三位本地及外國攝影師關於香港的攝影作品,他們來自法國、美國或日本,也有多位香港本地攝影師;他們有的在1950年代已開始攝影,也有剛開始攝影生涯的年輕攝影師。每位攝影師均有屬於自己的香港故事,這也是這次展覽「My Hong Kong」的由來,他們對香港有不同看法,眼中的香港也不盡相同,而這正體現這座城市的多樣性。

每個人都帶著自己的角度去觀看及感受城市,不同年代來過這城的人,總有一個愛上她的理由。在鍾文略及法國攝影師Raymond Cauchetier鏡頭下,既有充滿中文字招牌的街道風景,也捕捉當時平民階層的樸素生活。這兩位生活在不同世界的攝影師,命運卻有相似之處,他們均是自學成才,記錄下1950年代的香港街頭面貌,後來同樣成為劇照攝影師,分別為1960年代的香港電影及法國新浪潮電影留下重要見證。

香港的建築物也呈現出這座城市的歷史與性格,攝影師秦偉拍攝的是戰後的弧形街角樓,一種以實用為先的建築風格,這種商住工業並用的綜合用途建築物,恰好反映1950及1960年代房屋及工業物業需求急增的時代背景。在攝影師岑允逸鏡頭下,順安邨一座髹上鮮豔綠色的乒乓球檯,乍看之下令人想起美國導演Wes Anderson的電影畫面,細看又會發現鮮豔顏色與斑駁的地面形成強烈對比,即便許多公共屋邨外牆及設備被髹上奪目的顏色,卻無法掩蓋屋邨居民低收入及人口老化等現象。

在許多人眼中,香港是一座由鋼筋水泥構成的「石屎森林」,攝影師Stephen King及Thierry Cohen鏡頭下的香港均是如此,然而同時間也呈現出如幻似真的香港。Thierry Cohen利用在沙漠拍攝的夜空,以後期製作的手法為維港夜景增添滿天星辰,如此都市景觀帶有三分浪漫、七分超現實。儘管香港到處是摩天大樓,然而大自然距離城市並不遙遠,日本攝影師志鎌猛拍攝香港充滿大自然活力的一面,他以古典的鉑鈀印相工藝將相片曬在日本手造紙上,令照片有一種典雅之美。九十後攝影師Felix Wong則拍攝摩天大廈的局部,抽離建築物的背景及明顯特質,單純以幾何線條呈現其美感。

Thierry Cohen, Hong Kong 22° 16’ 38’’ N 2012-03-22 lst 14:00
From Darkened Cities series, 2010-2012. Courtesy of Boogie Woogie Photography

近年流行一個hashtag #香港真係好靚 ,其實不論現在或以前,在電影、文學還是現實中的香港,這座城市一直有其迷人之處,希望展覽《我城》能喚起你對這城的種種感受。

《我城 My Hong Kong

日期:2022年9月3日至10月1日、10月11日至15日 

時間:下午2時至7時 (星期二至六)

地址:黃竹坑道56-60號怡華工業大廈8樓 The Loft

藝術家展覽導賞:9月10日(星期六) 下午2時至4時
PS:10月4日至8日會參展Fine Art Asia,在灣仔會展中心展出相關攝影師的其他作品。

關於 Boogie Woogie Photography

2016年創立的Boogie Woogie Photography專門代理攝影藝術品及舉辦展覽,立足香港、放眼亞洲,為藝廊、收藏家、機構和攝影師提供一個平台,致力於區內推廣攝影藝術。

關於「顯影 PhotogStory

顯影是一個關注影像及攝影師故事的平台,除了分享展覽資訊及採訪攝影師,也會從日常生活入手,重溫經典照片背後的故事,近年開始策劃攝影展覽。 

攝影師簡介

Raymond Cauchetier (法國,1920-2021)

Raymond Cauchetier是法國新浪潮電影劇照攝影師,1951年,他隨法國空軍到胡志明市 (舊稱西貢) 服役,當時正值第一次印度支那戰爭,他拍攝空軍的行動以及戰役,為此還得到戴高樂將軍的褒獎。1954年戰爭結束後,他展開遊覽東南亞的旅程,在香港、澳門、越南、柬埔寨、老撾及日本等地拍攝當地的風土民情,在他的舊香港照片中,可見掛滿招牌的街道。

鍾文略 (香港,1925-2018)

1947年,鍾文略從廣東新會來港,在戲院當美術廣告畫學徒。1957年,他開始買下第一部相機,自學成才的他從此遊走在香港不同地區拍攝,記錄下當時的香港面貌。1963年,在李翰祥導演介紹下,鍾文略轉職到電懋影業公司,拍攝電影劇照及明星肖像,為那一代電影人留下重要的視覺回憶。1968年創辦影樓,從事攝影及沖印業務,1970年代開始減少在街頭拍攝,直至1991年退休,人生最精彩的三十多年,攝影可謂一直形影不離。

何藩 (香港,1931-2016)

生於上海、1949年移居香港,何藩被譽為「東方布列松」、光影魔術師,他對光影十分講究, 作品構圖鮮明,獨特的光影營造出或戲劇感或詩意美感。他拍攝的市井百態照片,充滿人文氣息,記錄那年代香港人的艱苦和堅韌。何藩作品被M+博物館、香港文化博物館、美國三藩市現代藝術博物館等機構收藏。

志鎌猛 (日本,1948)

志鎌猛對森林及花草樹木情有獨鍾,將對大自然的感性與敬畏,定格在黑白菲林裏,作品瀰漫著靜謐與禪意。他喜歡在森林漫遊,感受大自然的生命力,並以大片幅相機拍攝照片,再以古典的鉑鈀印相工藝將相片曬在日本手造紙上,創作過程對他而言也是一種沉澱。

Roger Ballen (美國,1950)

Roger Ballen是21世紀最具影響力和最重要的攝影藝術家之一,攝影生涯跨越四十年,他的標誌性作品是在南非拍攝的怪誕風格人像,畫面中的氛圍詭譎不安,視覺效果非常震撼。2022年,他是代表南非參加第59屆意大利威尼斯雙年展的三位藝術家之一。

秦偉 (香港,1958)

秦偉是香港大學專業進修學院「攝影深造文憑」課程統籌及講師、藝術家。早年畢業於法國Mulhouse高級藝術學院,獲法國文化部頒發國家高等造型表現碩士文憑。秦偉以當代西方的藝術造型風格表現東方傳統美學思維,描繪出個人的思考版圖,變幻不定的畫面鏡像,又如行吟的流浪詩歌,作品獨樹一格。

Thierry Cohen (法國,1963)

Thierry Cohen自1980年代成為攝影師,2010年開始其攝影計劃《Darkened Cities》,將在撒哈拉沙漠、阿塔卡瑪沙漠等地區拍攝的星空,結合紐約、倫敦、香港、上海等城市的夜景,創作成壯觀的影像。他的作品被私人和公共機構收藏,並定期在紐約、洛杉磯和巴黎展出。

Stephen King (美國,1966)

Stephen King是一位屢獲殊榮的攝影師,以拍攝自然和城市景觀而為人所認識,作品受中國水墨和美國抽象表現主義繪畫所影響。作為一名周遊列國的世界旅行者,他過去幾年大部分時間都在香港度過,藉此探索香港的城市環境。

Julian Cohen (英國,1967)

1998年,Julian Cohen來港三個月,愛上這座城市後,一直留下來至今。他是香港大律師公會之會員,2021年創立大律師事務所Resolution Chambers,閒暇時間,他喜歡以鏡頭記錄香港的大小事物。

岑允逸 (香港,1971)

岑允逸1994年在理工大學獲得攝影設計(榮譽)學士,曾任攝影記者逾十年,現為獨立攝影師,也曾出版多本攝影集,包括《一人生活》(2007)、《係‧唔係樂園:岑允逸攝影作品》(2008) 及《某座》(2014)等,作品被美國三藩市現代藝術博物館、香港文化博物館等機構收藏。

Jocelyne Ho (香港,1973)

Jocelyne一直對攝影很感興趣,不是在鏡頭後面或前面,而是通過另一雙眼睛去觀看。對她來說,每個人都是攝影師,即使看向同一個方向、同一個物體,每個人均會觀察到不同的東西,從而印在我們腦海中。

Felix Sze Chung Wong (香港,1991)

高中時期,Felix的同輩和父親激發他對攝影的熱情,在為不同行業的攝影師擔任數年攝影助理後,他決定前往英國深造藝術。Felix是一位攝影藝術家,透過鏡頭探索人與城市的關係。

Dion Leung (香港,1999)

狄安,香港視覺藝術工作者,作品包括攝影、影片與拼貼創作,當中以試驗「反叛」與「衝突」的題材尤其出色。狄安並非出身於藝術學院,作為一名自學成才的藝術工作者,她擅長從人與人的日常互動中,領略藝術的意義。

My Hong Kong, 我城: A Photography Group Exhibition

Boogie Woogie Photography & PhotogStory are pleased to present “My Hong Kong, 我城”,  a group exhibition at the Loft Wong Chuk Hang, from 3 September to 15 October 2022.

Every city has its own story to tell. In a vibrant and bustling city like Hong Kong, more stories are yet to be told. For Boogie Woogie Photography and PhotogStory, Photography brought us together. Although we have different backgrounds, we share the same passion for photography and fondness for this city. We met several years ago at an Art Fair, and now we’re thrilled to curate this exhibition, “My Hong Kong, 我城”, in Wong Chuk Hang.

“My Hong Kong, 我城”, comprises thirteen Hong Kong and international photographers’ artworks about the city. On display are Raymond Cauchetier and James Chung’s cityscapes from the 1950s as well as young talents’ impressions of Hong Kong. These images not only present the city’s past and present but also embrace the city’s diversity through the photographers’ eyes. We hope you enjoy the exhibition as we enjoy the city that we’re much-loved.

Raymond Cauchetier, Courtesy of Boogie Woogie Photography.

Everyone sees and feels the city from their perspective. People who have been to Hong Kong at different ages always have a reason to fall in love with the city. Under the lens of James Chung and French photographer Raymond Cauchetier, there is street scenery full of Chinese characters, reflecting people’s simple life at that time. Even though Chung and Cauchetier lived in different worlds, they had similar fates. Both were self-taught photographers and recorded Hong Kong’s street scene nearly seventy years ago. Later, they became set photographers, respectively for Hong Kong Films and for the French New Wave in the 1960s. Their photographs left a critical testimony of the golden era.

Hong Kong’s architecture also reflects the city’s character. Chun Wai photographed buildings with rounded corners, a practical architectural style popular in the post-war. Under the lens of Dustin Shum, a ping pong table painted in bright green in Shun on Estate is reminiscent of American director Wes Anderson’s movies at first glance. Yet, the bright colors contrasted with the mottled ground if you look closely, revealing the refurbishment in public housing estates, where the city’s low-income residents live. Photographer Felix Wong focuses on skyscrapers, extracting the background and apparent characteristics of the buildings, and simply presenting its aesthetics with geometric lines.

Hong Kong is known for its distinctive tower-studded cityscape. The high-rise buildings captured by photographers Stephen King and Thierry Cohen present a typical overlook of the city. Thierry Cohen combined stars shot separately from remoted deserts to the Victoria Harbour night scene with digital techniques, to give the cityscape a romantic and surreal look. Although Hong Kong is full of skyscrapers, nature is not far from the city. Japanese photographer Takeshi Shikama captured this urban jungle. The photographs are hand-printed on Japanese handmade Ganpi paper with the ancient platinum technique. His images demonstrate the city’s rarely seen elegant silent beauty. 

Thierry Cohen, Hong Kong 22° 16’ 38’’ N 2012-03-22 lst 14:00,
From Darkened Cities series, 2010-2012. Courtesy of Boogie Woogie Photography.

Hong Kong is a charismatic city. Whether in the movies or the reality, this place always attracted and fascinated visitors. We hope the audiences can arouse unique memories of the city in the “My Hong Kong, 我城” exhibition.

My Hong Kong, 我城  

Date: 3 Sep – 1 Oct, 11-15 Oct 2022

Time: 2-7pm (Tuesday – Saturday)

Address: The Loft, 8/F, E Wah Factory Building, 

56-60 Wong Chuk Hang Road, Wong Chuk Hang. 

Guided tour with the artists: Saturday 10 September, 2-4pm

PS: 4-8 Oct will be exhibiting at Fine Art Asia in HKCEC Wan Chai.

About Boogie Woogie Photography 

Boogie Woogie Photography is a company founded in Hong Kong in 2016 to promote photography in Asia. The mission is to act as a platform for galleries, collectors, companies, and photographers aiming to develop photography projects in Hong Kong and Asia. 

About PhotogStory

PhotogStory is an online Photography platform and Guest Curator based in Hong Kong. We focus on stories of local and international photographers and stories behind classic photos.

Artists Profile

Raymond Cauchetier (France, 1920-2021)

Raymond Cauchetier was the most famous photographer of French New Wave cinema. His first photographs were taken in his thirties while serving in the press corps of the French Air Force in Indochina. Cauchetier traveled through Hong Kong in 1954 because the city was conveniently on the air route he had chosen on his way to France on his return from Indochina. He thought he would stay there for only 24 hours, but the city fascinated him, and his stay extended for one week. Hong Kong was still a quiet colonial city. It was a port and a compulsory crossing point for sailors rather than a place to stay. He left a bouquet of memories, a little yellowed but always authentic. 

James Chung (China, 1925-2018)

James Chung embarked on his journey in photography in 1957 when he acquired his first Rolleicord. Entirely self-taught, he became a full-time movie-still photographer in 1963. James started his studio in North Point In 1968, focusing on portraits for commercials and print enlargement. His achievements in photography were further recognized by the Honorary Fellowship from the Photographic Society of Hong Kong and Fellowship from the Royal Photographic Society of Great Britain later. The Hong Kong Heritage Museum collects his works.

Fan Ho (China, 1931-2016)

Dubbed the “Cartier-Bresson of the East”, Fan Ho patiently always waited for the decisive moment. His images are often a collision of the unexpected, framed against a very clever composed background of geometrical construction, patterns, and texture. He often created drama and atmosphere with backlit effects or through the combination of smoke and light. His favorite locations were the streets, alleys, and markets around dusk or life on the sea. His works were in many private and public collections, including the M+ Museum & the Heritage Museum in Hong Kong, the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art in the USA, and many more.

Takeshi Shikama (Japan, 1948)

Takeshi Shikama’s life ambition is to capture the “invisible” world that lingers beyond the visible world of the trees. Each photograph is hand-printed by Takeshi Shikama, using the ancient platinum/palladium technique, considered the highest quality in black and white photographic printing. The Japanese Gampi paper on which he prints is a handmade UNESCO national treasure. It requires a great deal of time and manual labor, which reflects the intimacy Shikama has with his subject matter.

Roger Ballen (the United States, 1950)

Roger Ballen’s photographs span over forty years, and he is one of the most influential and important photographic artists of the 21st century. His strange and extreme works confront the viewer and challenge them to come with him on a journey into their minds as he explores the deeper recesses of his own. Roger Ballen is one of the artists representing South Africa at the Venice Biennale 2022 in Italy.

Chun Wai (Hong Kong, 1958)

Born in Hong Kong and educated at the École supérieure des beaux-arts de Mulhouse in France, photographer Chun Wai’s perspective lies in his humanistic vision and macro-historical framework in interpreting the changing world. His project covered a vast area in the region, including Hong Kong. His work is full of a sorrowful yet romantic mood and reveals his personal landscape. The phantasmagorical image like a rhythm poem of a stray, is a unique work of art. 

Thierry Cohen (France, 1963)

Thierry Cohen has been a professional photographer since 1985 and a pioneer in the use of digital techniques from the end of the 1980s. He lives and works between Paris and Monségur, close to the Atlantic Coast. Since 2006, he has devoted most of his time to personal work. Thierry is interested in the impact of human activities, particularly on nature. His works are held in private and public collections and regularly exhibited in New York, Los Angeles, and Paris.

Stephen King (the United States, 1966)

Stephen is an award-winning photographer based in Hong Kong, known for his painterly and carefully composed depictions of the natural and urban landscape. A product of two cultures, Stephen points to his love of Chinese ink and American Abstract Expressionist painting as influences that help inform his aesthetic. Ordinarily an intrepid world traveler, due to the pandemic, Stephen has spent much of the last few years in Hong Kong, exploring the colors and light in Hong Kong’s urban environment.

Julian Cohen (the United Kingdom, 1967)

Julian came to Hong Kong in 1998 for three months, fell in love with the city, and has stayed. He was called to

the Hong Kong Bar in 2010 and founded Resolution Chambers in 2021. He is today a renowned Barrister & Arbitrator. He photographs the city with his passion for the place and people.

Dustin Shum (Hong Kong, 1971)

Dustin Shum is a Hong Kong-based artist and documentary photographer. He has published several monographs on various topics, including Themeless Parks (2008), BLOCKS, and Live and Times (both in 2014). His works were collected by the SFMoMA, the Hong Kong Heritage Museum, and private collectors.

Jocelyne Ho (Hong Kong, 1973)

Jocelyne has always been interested in photography – not to be behind or in front of a camera, but to see through a different pair of eyes, perhaps because she was aware that her eyes did not give her 20/20 vision. To her, everyone is a photographer. We may be looking in the same direction, the same object, but she believes we all see differently, and we choose which images to imprint on our minds.

Felix Sze Chung Wong (Hong Kong, 1991)

His passion for photography was sparked during high school by his peers and father. After a few years working as a photographer assistant for photographers of different sectors, Felix decided to study further in the field of art in the UK. Felix Sze Chung Wong is a Photographic artist who explores one’s relationship with the city through its facades.

Dion Leung (Hong Kong, 1999)

Dion Leung is a Hong Kong-based visual artist, mainly working with photography, videography, and collage. She explores topics of rebellion and conflict with a practice of realism. As a self-taught artist, Dion is constantly looking for the expression of art amongst human interaction in other disciplines. Having an interest in history and politics, she is trying to fulfill her understanding of the sophisticated world through her art practice and reminding herself that everything true is beautiful.

時尚攝影 華麗與反諷

時尚攝影是時裝的櫥窗,也是攝影師發揮想像力的舞台,它既詮釋美感,也傳達更高層次的想法。人人知道何謂時尚攝影,卻未必真正了解服裝背後的意義。要懂得欣賞它的華麗,需要品味,要懂得感受它的用意,還要用心。

時尚攝影由來

Mayer and Pierson工作室為拿破崙三世的情人Virginia Oldoini拍攝照片,被視為最早時尚攝影之一。

時尚與攝影,並非總是一併出現的,時尚源遠流長,而攝影面世尚不足二百年。時尚攝影的面世,自然與1839年攝影術的誕生息息相關,短短十多年後,所謂的時尚攝影已出現。在攝影的誕生地法國,攝影師Pierre-Louis Pierson與拍檔Mayer兄弟,在1855年成立Mayer and Pierson工作室,為當時的達官貴人拍攝肖像,其中為拿破崙三世的情人Virginia Oldoini拍攝的照片最廣為人知,相片中的她身穿豪華服飾、自信地展示不同的肢體動作。單純美感而言,這些照片已可媲美當下的時尚雜誌,後來這批影像也被普遍認為是最早的時尚攝影。

早期其實並沒有時尚攝影的說法,所謂的時尚與攝影,也只是上流社會的玩意,十九世紀中後期出現的兩本雜誌《Harper’s Bazaar》及《Vogue》,某程度上改變這現狀。初時流行以插畫展示時裝,美國商人Conde Nast在1909年收購《Vogue》後,銳意改革成high-end雜誌,找來當時著名的肖像攝影師Adolph de Meyer拍攝時裝,嚴格來說,這才是時尚攝影的開端,意味着時尚攝影進入專業化的年代。

Adolph de Meyer為《Vogue》及《Vanity Fair》雜誌掌鏡,1922年轉投《Harper’s Bazaar》成為首席攝影師,原有職位則由藝術攝影大師Edward Steichen接手。最初拍攝服裝時,Edward Steichen也如Adolph de Meyer一樣,利用柔和燈光營造出唯美感,但很快他便摒棄這種古典油畫風格,取而代之是輪廓分明、光影對比強烈的影像,來呈現出女性與時裝的魅力。這一風格對後來的時尚攝影有很大影響,因而被後人尊稱為「現代時尚攝影之父」,相反比他更早入行的Adolph de Meyer,卻漸漸被人遺忘。

簡單概括時尚攝影的歷史,無非就是《Vogue》與《Harper’s Bazaar》雜誌的攝影師之爭,不論是二戰前的Erwin Blumenfeld、George Hoyningen-Huene、Cecil Beaton及Horst P. Horst,還是戰後的Irving Penn、Richard Avedon、Helmut NewtonGuy Bourdin,都長期依附這兩本雜誌,慢慢建立起時尚攝影大師的名譽(當然後來的《Purple》、《The Face》及《i-D》等雜誌等也孕育出Terry RichardsonMario Sorrenti及Mark Borthwick等攝影師,這另當別論)。2019年為香港版創刊號《Vogue》拍攝封面照片的英國攝影師Nick Knight,自1990年代至今,也為英國版《Vogue》拍攝過數十張封面照片。

by Lilian Bassman

美感與反諷 

時尚攝影誠然是推動時裝潮流及發展的見證者,Chanel的小黑裙、Dior的New Look,無不是在時尚攝影的推波助瀾下,變得廣為人知。Brian Duffy及Terence Donovan等英倫攝影師的鏡頭,更記錄1960年代風靡一時的Swing London風潮。時尚攝影某程度上是用攝影的手法展示時裝,通過模特兒的演繹呈現出服飾的華麗,但若因如此,便狹義地定義時尚攝影,明顯是以偏概全,將時尚攝影形容為商業的傀儡。

攝影師們也心知肚明,這樣只會百害而無一益,因此借用時尚攝影來表達自我個性,形成別樹一幟的風格。Helmut Newton的黑白照片充滿情色挑逗、Guy Bourdin通過飽和色彩及女性胴體去呈現慾望、Melvin Sokolsky的漂浮「Bubble」系列非常夢幻、Lilian Bassman的影像猶如水墨畫、Tim Walker的作品充滿童話式怪誕,這些攝影師的作品本身已相當iconic,即使面對不同的時裝服飾,也能轉化為充滿個人風格的影像。2019年初在太古坊ArtisTree舉行的《Beyond Fashion》展覽,也可見不少離經叛道的攝影師作品,Juergen Teller那幅將Victoria Beckham塞入白紙袋的作品,還有之前的Marc Jacobs Bang男士香水廣告及西太后Vivienne Westwood的裸照,都是與傳統時尚攝影唱反調的例證。

然而,我卻欣賞那些懂得借用時尚攝影來探討社會議題的攝影師。1940年代初,納粹對英國進行大轟炸,那時的倫敦滿目瘡痍,為《Vogue》掌鏡的Cecil Beaton,將模特兒置身廢墟之中,以影像控訴戰爭的殘忍無情;同時期的女性攝影師Lee Miller,則透過時尚照片讓模特兒親身示範回收廢金屬和橡膠等材料,用於製造不同武器或工具,讓民眾以簡單而實際的方式支援戰爭。上世紀最經典的例子,不得不提意大利攝影師Oliviero Toscani在1982年至千禧年間為服裝品牌Bennetton創作的一系列廣告影像,成功挑起種族、人權及宗教等話題的討論。

踏入廿一世紀,這邊廂Miles Aldridge的《Homeworks》系列作品色彩夢幻,身穿華麗外衣的模特兒神情茫然,藉此反諷社會物化女性的現象。那邊廂,為意大利《Vogue》操刀的Steven Meisel走得更前,2005年的《Makeover Madness》直指時尚圈的整容問題,2006年的《State of Emergency》講的是恐怖主義下女性受到不人道對待,2007年的《Make Love Not War》系列,則通過風花雪月的畫面與當時的戰爭形成強烈對比,藉此呼籲停止伊拉克戰爭。

《State of Emergency》by Steven Meisel

時尚與人像攝影

時尚攝影不直接等同於人像攝影,反之亦然(如人像攝影師Yousuf Karsh),不過兩者總是相輔相成的。二戰後成名的Irving PennRichard Avedon,分別擔任《Vogue》及《Harper’s Bazaar》的攝影師,亦敵亦友、惺惺相惜,共同將人像攝影帶到新高度。他們均擅長以簡單背景捕捉被攝者或困惑或喜悅的情緒,用光影及表情來突顯人物性格,尤其是曾在香港舉辦展覽的Irving Penn,有時也透過強烈的明暗對比,帶來獨特的視覺效果,這從拍攝Miles Davis、Issey Miyake及標誌性的畢加索照片裏,均可見一斑。

如果說已故的Irving Penn以簡約的黑白人像見稱,那麼中生代的瑞士攝影師Markus Klinko,則是風格多元的例子。現年60歲的他,掌鏡時尚及人像攝影逾25年,2019年曾在香港展出《2000s : Bowie and Beyond》,展示千禧年代拍攝的名人照片(以助港安醫院慈善基金籌款)。他時而以簡單背景拍攝David Bowie(另一幅坐在窗前的照片則恍如油畫)、時而以誇張造型拍攝Lady Gaga,在歌手Beyoncé的《Dangerously in Love》專輯封面照片中,婀娜多姿的她身穿鑽石上衣;另一幅英國名媛Daphne Guinness的照片,則身穿華麗服飾站在湖面上,感覺非常魔幻。Markus Klinko某程度上也象徵當下的時尚攝影,百花齊放得來又各有特色。

時尚攝影的反思

廿一世紀的當下,時尚攝影無所不在,在流行雜誌、戶外廣告及社交平台上比比皆是,時尚攝影的定義比以往更廣泛,它作為一種視覺元素,早已融入大眾生活之中,許多人也懂得利用時尚攝影來表達自我。然而不得不承認的是,在這影像氾濫的年代,人人都可以是時尚攝影師,然而別具一格的卻寥寥可數,更別說震撼整個時尚界的作品了。

在充斥着海量相片的社交平台裏,影像常常一掃而過,即使有心思的作品出現,懂得細心欣賞的人也是少之又少。反觀整個二十世紀,許多經典的人物形象,例如柯德莉夏萍、夢露及麥當娜等,都是透過時尚攝影塑造出來,Irving PennRichard AvedonWilliam KleinLillian Bassman等大師的經典作品,更昂然走入藝術殿堂。時尚攝影能否在前人的栽種下走得更遠,這才是值得時尚界及攝影師學習及反思的地方。

·原文刊登於《信報 Lifestyle Journal》,有所增減。